I
had always wanted to visit Khajuraho. It intrigued me always as to why would
someone build such majestic temples middle of nowhere and after few centuries
people will completely forget about its existence only to be found by a
British and become famous again.
Originally
the team consisted of Subhadip Mukherjee, Prasenjit Sanyal & Prosanto Mondal.
Prasenjit due to year end work could not join us and Amitabho Gupta joined the
gang. Unfortunately the day before our departure there was a family emergency
at Prasonto’s house and he dropped out. Thus the final team was Subhadip
Mukherjee & Amitabho Gupta.
Day 1
Saturday
15th of March 2014 we took Shipra Express from Howrah (Kolkata) to Satna. Myself and Amitabho met near the
clock tower at Howrah Station and proceeded towards platform No. 9. Being Holi
weekend 3AC was out of scope thus we settled for Sleeper Class. We decided not
to take any dinner from home and to take the service from on board catering
service. This was a mistake since for 130 Rs. we were served 1 single packet of
Chicken Biriyani. This small packet
had around 5 – 6 spoons of dry rice with 1 small piece of chicken and a huge
piece of potato. We took our dinner sitting on the upper birth and went to
sleep early. Sleep do not come easily thus we kept chatting and catching up
since we were actually meeting after 7 years. Had lot of untold stories which
were exchanged.
We
decided to sleep till 10 – 11 Am but surprisingly both woke up at 6 AM. The train
had just reached Chuanarand I wanted Amitabho to take a look at the Chunar
Fort. Could not see much but could figure out something from a distance.
Amitabho was ready with his camera and thus or shoot had already started.
The
train was supposed to reach Satna at around 11.30 AM and it was already running
late by 2 hours so we decided to again have lunch on train rather than having
it at a hotel/dhaba once we reach Satna. Food was simple thali 60 Rs. Not that
good but better than Chicken Biriyani.
Day 2
The
train reached Satana at around 1.30 PM, as usual once we were out of the
station we were hounded by cab drivers . Clearly we looked like tourist with
tripod bags and backpacks. The cab drivers usually approach you with the brand
of car that they have and the amount they want. They started at around 1500 Rs.
for a Khajuraho drop. We started at around 1000 Rs. which we thought was
justified since one of our friend had visited 3 years back and he had paid 700
Rs. Considering the cost of Diesel price increase 1000 Rs. was justified.
However they refused to go below 1300 Rs and finally after haggling we managed
at 1200 Rs for a new Tata Indigo.
Tip:
Since you have a choice always go for a better and a spacious car, avoid
Indica,Omni etc.
The
driver was well behaved and informed us that it will be a 2 and half hours’
drive. However the driver had his mobile hands free glued to his ear throughout
the journey and we had to bear the love talks between the driver and his
girlfriend. Amitabho had his Ipod glued to his ear thus he did not face/hear
the nonstop chatter and I had the privilege.
After
around 1 hour drive the driver stopped at a Dhaba
for his lunch and informed us to have our tea, lunch or snacks at the Dhaba since that will be last eatery for
the next hour and half as the Panna forest range will start next. We did not
have anything but it was a good time to stretch our legs and watch the forest
and hill range in the distance. After 15 – 20 minutes we resumed our journey
towards Khajuraho.
Within
20 minutes of drive we were in the Panna forest zone. At the time we were
travelling there we no chance for us to spot any wildlife though occasionally
we saw some monkeys and languor. What surprised me most was to see the forest
officials and his teams collecting Guthka,
chips and other plastic packets which lie around the road. We stopped our car
to ask they why they were doing this. We were informed that this was being done
to prevent the wildlife from eating these plastic items. These can be deadly
for them if they consume the plastic packet.
We
reached Khajuraho at around 4.30 PM. We were dropped at the taxi stand which
was barely 50 meters from our hotel. Amitabho was very apprehensive about the
quality of the hotel since it was only 500 Rs for a double bedded room. When we
reached the reception we were greeted courteously and our booking email
confirmation printout was requested by them. Once the basic formalities done we
were escorted to our room. Amitabho jaw just dropped once entering the room. It
was clean two bedded room (two separate single beds) with clean bed sheets and
pillow covers. The toilet was spick and span with 24 hours running cold and hot
water. Basically thus type of room one needs to pay around 1800 to 2500 Rs. in
Kolkata.
We
quickly unpacked our bags and headed for a quick shower. Once freshened up we
had a cup of tea prepared by Amitabho (he always travels with Taj tea bags).
Fully recharged we were now ready to head towards the Western Group of temples.
The hotel was at a stone throw distance from the entrance gate. The entrance
fee is 10 Rs for Indians and 150 Rs. for foreigners. 25 Rs. will be charged for
Video photography. Tripods are not allowed inside, however with prior ASI
permission it will be allowed. We had mini tripods with us which came in handy
later.
The
Western group of temples is the largest group and maintained very well by ASI
(Archeological Survey of India). While entering you are searched for tobacco
related items. You are not allowed to carry these inside and Amitabho had two
packets of cigs. He refused to hand over the packet and decided to head back to
the hotel to keep back the packet.
The Western group have the following
temples :-(Information on temples taken from
Wikipedia)
LAKSHMAN TEMPLE
This
striking temple stands facing the Varaha and Devi Mandaps. It is one of the
three largest temples of Khajuraho and the western group of temples and is
considered to be the earliest ( c.AD 954 ) to have been built by the Chandella
rulers. The temples faces the east and is dedeicated to Vishnu, though it goes
by a rather inappropriate name of Lakshman, the brother of Ram.
DEVI MANDAP
Opposite the large Lakshman Temple are two small
shrines. The one directly opposite is called Devi Mandap, its cemented peaked
roof an indication that it has been renovated during the last century.
VARAHA MANDAP
This open pavilion stands to the south of the
Devi shrine on a high platform. The Mandap stands elevated
above the ground with 14 short pillars that support the high pyramidal roof
capped with an Amalaka and Kalash.
KANDARIYA MAHADEV TEMPLE
This
is without any doubt the largest and most magnificent temple in Khajuraho. The
elegant proportions of this building and its sculptural detailing are the most
refined examples of this artistic heritage of central India.
MAHADEV SHRINE
Between the Kandariya and the Devi Jagdambi
Temples is a small shrine whose purpose is difficult to ascertain. It is called
the Mahadev Shrine and consists of a small open - pillared porch and sanctum,
the structure has suffered further through renovations during the last century.
A figure of the rampant lion fighting with a kneeling figure, presumed to be
the emblem of the Chandellas, has some reason been installed in the porch.
there are two similar rampant lion figures on the platform of the Kandariya Madadev
and Devi temples.
DEVI JAGDAMBI TEMPLE
This is much smaller than the magnificent
Kandariya Mahadev Temple. lt has a cross plan with only on set of balconies,
only one Mandap and no inner Pradakshinapatha. However, the Devi Jagdambi
Temple has some of the loveliest sculptures ill Khajuraho, and because of its
medium height most of them are easily visible.
CHITRAGUPTA TEMPLE
This is the only local temple dedicated to
Surya and is situated about 91 m to the north of the Jagadambi temple and 183 m
south-east of an ancient (Chandella) three storied stepped tank, known as the
Chopra. In respect of plan, design, dimensions and decorative scheme this
temple closely resembles the Jagadambi and consists of a sanctum without
ambulatory, vestibule, Maha-mandapa with lateral transepts and entrance-porch,
the last being completely restored above the original plinth. The octagonal
ceiling of its Maha-mandapa marks an elaboration over the square plan and thus
appears to be relatively more ornate and developed than Jagadambi and may
consequently be slightly later in date. The main image enshrined in the sanctum
represents an impressive sculpture of standing Surya driving in a chariot of
seven horses. Three similar but smaller figures of Surya are depicted on the
lintel of the ornate doorway. The temple walls are also carved with some of the
finest figures of Sura-sundaris, erotic couples and gods including an
eleven-headed Vishnu. The sculptures on this temple. as on the Jagadambi,
approximate those of the Visvanatha in style. The same affinity is visible with
regard to the architectural and decorative motifs. The Jagdambi and the
Chitragupta temples are, therefore, stylistically placed between the Visvanatha
and the Kandariya and are assignable to circa 1000-25.
PARVATI TEMPLE
VISHWANATH TEMPLE
This is one of the finest of the Khajuraho temples and was built by the
Chandella king Dhanga in 1002. The temple itself has a most delicate balance.
It measures 89' x 45'10" (27m x 13.5m). The sculptures are particularly
striking in the carving and in some of the subject matter. Dedicated to Shiva,
the temple enshrines not only a Shiva lingam but also his "vehicle",
the bull Nandi, as well as an image of his consort depicted as Durga. In
another subsidiary corner shrine on the temple podium is an image of the Shiva
lingam with four faces attached.
MATANAGESHWAR TEMPLE
This
is the only temple where puja is till performed by devotees and this temple is
outside the boundary walls of ASI Western Group. The shrine is eight feet high
that is made of shiny yellow limestone. It is considered as the holiest of the
temples of Khajuraho. This temple has some of the largest Shiva lingams of
India. The shrine is eight feet high which is made up of shiny yellow
limestone. There is a small Ganesh at upper right, and a large image of a
Goddess with two smaller attendant deities were set up on the path toward the
temple.
We
managed to only photograph the western side of the temples as the sun was
setting and the color of the stones became reddish brown with the reflection of
the sun rays. We decided to pack up and the complex closes with Sunset and the
security at this section were already clearing the visitors.
By
this time we were quite hungry and decided to eat some freshly prepared Aloo Parathaas. Costing around 20 Rs. a
piece these were cheap yet filling. Khajuraho is costly in terms of food and a
basic meal of chicken curry and 4 Rootis
can cost around 200 Rs. to 250 Rs. This was followed by a cup (glass full) of
Lemon Tea. This is probably the best Lemon Tea I had ever had. Costing around
Rs. 10 a glass these were a real shooting for the tiered body. We decided to
skip dinner as the two Aloo Parathaas
were more than an evening snack.
We
decided to check out the Sound and Light
Show in the evening. There are basically two shows one in English and
followed by Hindi. The English version starts at 7.30 PM and goes on till 8.30
PM. The Hindi version starts at 8.30 PM and ends at 9.30 PM. We decided to
check out the Hindi version as we were told that the Hindi version has voice
over by Amitabh Bachchan and we could not afford to miss this.
The
tickets cost Rs.150 per person. You are allowed to carry Photo Cameras but
Video Cameras and Tripod are not allowed. Again our mini tripod came in handy
as these were undetected. The rule on tobacco products apply here also and my friend
was clever enough to leave the packets behind. There are basically no seat
reservations, there are rows of plastic garden chair and you grab what position
you want. We were extra enthusiastic thus took our garden chairs away from the
crowd to have a clear view.
I
had set up my mini tripod already and was ready for the show. The show started
with the familiar baritone voice of Amitabh and the temple started being lit
out according to the story one by one in different colors. All hell broke loose
at this moment, somehow none of our cameras could focus on the colorful
temples. Autofocus was hunting for appoint of reference and we decided to shift
to manual mode. Still there was no solution as it was impossible to adjust
focus manually in the dark. We took nearly 100 photographs each but none of
them were to our satisfaction.
After
the show we went back to the hotel and started our intellectual discussions.
This lasted till 3 in the morning with Amitabho referring to each of the
photographs taken and matching it with the references in the book. He took
pages and pages on notes for the next day’s shoot.
Day 3
With
few hours of sleep we got up around 5.30 in the morning and after our morning
schedule we were ready to check out the Western Section again. By 6.15 AM the
gates were open and the whole group of temples looked fantastic with the light
morning rays. We took the most photographs and managed to cover all the western
sections by 10 AM. After this the sun becomes very harsh and the color of the
stone temple changes drastically making then not so suitable for photographing.
Thus we decided to have our brunch as we were really hungry by now.
We
decided to again have Aloo Parathaas
and Lemon tea as we were still licking our lips from last evenings outing.
After a quick snack we decided to enter the western section again but this time
to photograph the inside of each of the temples.
Once
back inside we noticed then the inside of the temples were considerably dark
and very difficult to have a steady shots with long exposure and no tripod. We
tried with Flash but the output was not satisfactory. Luckily I had with me my
LED ring light and this was perfect for this type of situation. Me and my
friend shared the LED ring light In turns to shoot each and every sections. We
carried on shooting till 2 PM and then decided to head back to the hotel to
freshen up.
Back
at the hotel we had a quick shower and we were back to planning our next move.
We decided to visit the Eastern, Southern and Jain section next. At around 3 PM
we came out of the hotel and went to the auto stand. A man approached us and we
told him that we wanted to see the Eastern, Southern and Jain section he agreed
to show us all these sections for 400 Rs. We thought this was a fair amount
considering that the auto (Vikram Auto) will remain with us till 6 PM. We were
surprised when we saw this person hail a auto and explain him the route. We
then realized that this guy was guide/middleman and his commission was 100 Rs.
out of the 400 Rs. thus we could have easily directly hired the auto for 300
Rs. Anyways we did not regret this as the guide and the auto driver were
extremely helpful and informative.
We started our tour to Southern section
:- (Information on temples taken from
Wikipedia)
CHATUR BHUJ TEMPLE
This
stands off the main Khajuraho Airport or Bamitha road. It is approximately
three kilometers south of Khajuraho and is approached by a motorable road. The temples
stand lonely and serene on a high platform against the backdrop off the Lavanya
hills. This is the only important temple in Khajuraho that faces west and it is
worth saving your sunset to visit this little shrine. The temple is similar to
Javari of the eastern group of temples but like all temples in Khajuraho, it is
too unique.
DULADEO TEMPLE
The
temple, judging from a 1904 photograph, was severely damaged; its Shikhara had
all but collapsed and the Mandap roof caved in, but the entire porch and a wide
open Madap with an amazing circular corbelled inner replicas. The dancing
figures on the pillars and pilasters of the Mandap are noteworthy for their vigor
and energetic stances.
We proceeded to Jain section :-(Information
on temples taken from Wikipedia)
PARSHVANATH TEMPLE
This
temple is built on a low plinth, unlike the high platforms of all other temples
at Khajuraho, which makes it much easier to study the sculptures here. The
temple is rectangular in shape with few star - like projections that add so
much variety to the other temples of this period. The Parshvanath Temple has a
porch on the east side that leads into the Mandap and sanctum. There is also a
projection on the west side, apparently added later, containing a small shrine.
ADINATH TEMPLE
Standing
beside the Parshvanath temple on the north side, is this exquisite little
temple. The temple exterior has been divided into an Adhishthana, above which
are two rows of sculptures and a narrow band of celestial musicians and garland
bearers. the first perception of the figurative art of the Adinath temple is
that it is so elegant and refined, so different from its heavier, stubbier
counterparts in the Parshvanath temple.
SHANTINATH TEMPLE
The
Shantinath Temple is a modern composite structure that incorporates sections of
several temples and has several shrines. The main section has a 12-foot-tall
(3.7 m) idol of Lord Shantinath with an inscription of Sam. 1085.
In between Jain and Eastern section :-(Information
on temples taken from Wikipedia)
GHANTAI TEMPLE
All
that remain are pillars, some with bells (Ghanti, hence the name) dangling on
chains all carved in stone. Cunningham discovered the only Buddhist statue to
be found in Khajuraho in the vicinity of the Ghantai temple.
We proceeded to Eastern section :-(Information
on temples taken from Wikipedia)
BRAMHA TEMPLE
This
temple with a simple plan and design and with the Sikhara made of sandstone and
the body of granite, occupies a fine position on the bank of the Khajuraho
sagar or Ninora-tal. It is miscalled Brahma on account of a four-faced Linga
now enshrined in the sanctum, but must have originally been dedicated to Vishnu
as shown by his figure carved centrally on the lintel of the sanctum-doorway.
It is a modest structure, comprising a sanctum and a porch, the later now
completely lost and the former roofed by a pyramidal Sikhara of receding tiers
of Pidhas, crowned by a prominent bell-member. The sanctum is cruciform
externally with projections on each side, and square internally, resting on
twelve plain pilasters of granite. The projection on the east contains the
entrance and that on the west is pierced with a smaller doorway, while the
lateral projections on the remaining two sides contain plain latticed windows.
Except for the body modeled figures of the Brahmanical Trinity on the lintel
and Ganga and Yamuna at the base, its doorway is plain. Its Jangha (wall)
divided into two registers and standing on simple basement Mouldingsis also
plain. Despite some difference in details this temple belongs to the same
conception and early structural phase the Lalguan-Mahadeva with which it shares
a common plan, design, ornaments and building material. It is consequently
assignable to circa 900.
JAVARI TEMPLE
Down
the path from the Bramha Temples and situated to the east, in the middle of
afield, is the small platform on which thi temple stands. The name Javari is
derived from the one time owner of the land, or so it is assumed, for there is
no Hindu deity bearing this title. The temple is diminutive and its proportions
are attractive, measuring 11.88 meters in length and 6.4 meters in breath. The
temple, though substantially renovated, has the characteristic exterior walls
lined with bands of sculptures, niches on the cardinal points, but all in
miniature form. The dainty roof over the porch grows to meet the pyramidal Mandap
roof and this leads the eye to the elegant Shikhara above the sanctum.
The
temple, dedicated to Vishnu, consists of a long porch entered through a nice
stone Toran. The Makara - Toran has four decorated loops crowned by a Kirtimukha.
The Mandap is small as is the Garbha Griha. This structure is similar in style
to the Chaturbhuj Temple.
VAMANA TEMPLE
This
temple dedicated to the Varmana form of Vishnu, is situated about 200 m. to the
north-east o the so-called brahma temple. It is Nirandhara (one without
ambulatory) temple, consisting on plan of a Sapta-ratha (seven-projection)
sanctum, vestibule, Maha-mandapa with lateral transepts and entrance-porch, of
which only the plinth has survived. Its Sikhara is unencumbered by any
subsidiary Sikharas and is embellished with a fret-work of Chaitya-arches,
contrast to the developed local temples; erotic scenes are absent here, except
in the subsidiary niches of the proof-pediments. It is also noteworthy for
showing over the Maha-mandapa a peculiar roof known as Samvarana which is
characteristic of the medieval temples of western India. The absence of the Dhammilla-
type of head-dress on the Sura-sundari figures indicates that the temple is
later than the Kandariya, the sculptural types and style of which it continues.
This temple is, therefore, assignable to circa 1050-75.
By
the time we completed the Eastern section it was already 6.30 PM and we were
dead tiered. We headed straight back to the hotel and freshened up. We had
enough of Alu Parathaas thus decided
to try something else. We went to a nice restaurant and had delicious Chicken
curry and Tandoori Rootis. It was really tasty and the quantity was sufficient.
Back at the hotel we again went back into our discussion mode and did a quick
review on the things that we had seen. We went to bed early at around 10 AM and
decided to visit the Western section again the next morning since there were
few idols that we had missed or did not pay much attention. We made a list and
went into a quick sleep mode.
Day 4
We
got up by 5.30 AM and were ready to go by 6 AM. Straight to the ticket counter
and we were the first ones to enter. This was a blessing in disguise since we
managed to take pictures of most of the temples without any human in our frame.
Disaster struck with Amitabho when his faithful Pentax K200D started
malfunctioning. There was a compel shutter malfunction and the DSLR kept firing
shutter continuously. Amitabho like a trues professional switched to P&S
Canon and kept up with his documentation. We continued this till 10 AM and then
decided to go for a quick brunch and again the choice of meal was Alu Parathaas.
There was another
temple called Chausath Yogini Temple
which was a part of the western group but was not within the main ASI Western
Compound. After asking some locals and thanks to Google Maps we saw it was a
five minute walk around the Shivsagar Lake.
We
headed out and being middle or March the Sun was quite strong. Walking past
Shivsagar Lake we saw Khajuraho Palace.
If
you have a picture of palaces of Rajasthan then please put that away from your mind
its rather a small in size. Shivsagar Lake is quite large in size but extremely
dirty. We could see a couple of dead animals floating on one side and people
using that same water body for bathing on the other.
CHAUSATH YOGINI TEMPLE
(Information on temples taken from
Wikipedia)
The Chausath-yogini
temple, made of coarse granite, is the earliest building at Khajuraho and is
situated on a low granite outcrop to the south-west of the Siva-Sagar tank. The
temple has an exceptional plan and design. Standing on a lofty (5.4 m.high)
platform, it is an open-air quadrangular (31- 4m x 18.3m) structure of
sixty-seven peripheral shrines, of which only thirty-five have now survived.
The shrines are tiny plain cells, each entered by a small doorway and roofed by
a curvilinear Sikhara of an elementary form. The shrine in the back wall,
facing the entrance, is the largest and perhaps constituted the main shrine. A
few simple moldings on the façade are all the decoration that the temple
displays, but in spite of its uncouth appearance and rugged bareness, it possesses
an elemental strength and reveals some basic traits of Khajuraho style, such as
a lofty platform and a jangha (wall) divided into two registers. Of all the
yogini temples in India, this is the most primitive in construction and unique
in being quadrangular and not circular on plan. The three surviving images,
representing Brahmani, Mahesvari and Hingalaja (Mahishamardini) are massive and
squat in form and are among the oldest sculptures of Khajuraho. The latter two
are inscribed as Mahesvari and Hingalaja. The evidence of the sculptural and
architectural style, coupled with the early paleography of the short labels on
the images, indicates that the temple is probably datable to the last quarter
of the ninth century.
Just
when we finished and wanted to head back to our hotel Amitabho interrupted me
by informing me that there is another temple nearby which is no there on the
map. We checked the coordinates on Google Map and it was not showing up. A
group of three boys were walking by and Amitabho asked is they knew where Lalgun Mahadev
temple
was. They pointed us the direction but we were confused since we could only see
rows of houses and farm lands. These boys then asked us to come with them and
we followed them to a 20 minute walk. This was a cruel walk at the Sun was at
its peak and we were dead tiered. After crossing maze of lanes we reach Wheat
fields and it was a treat walking amongst dense wheat plants. Finally we
reached the place where we could spot a small temple in the distance. We took
some photographs and also requested the boys to pose for us. While returning we
broke into conversation with the boys and they were extremely courteous. They
were all studying in school but on that day they did not have school as they
were having Holi vacations.
In Kahjuraho they celebrate Holi the next
day from rest of India. They day rest of India celebrates Holi the people of
Khajuraho celebrate something called ‘KeehcharHoli’ (dirt Holi).
It
was long walk back and we bid goodbye to the boys. As a thank you gesture we
gave them Candies and Chocolates. Initially they refused but after much
insisting they agreed to accept them.
Back
to our hotel we freshened up quickly but we wanted to visit the Western section
again for the very last time during this trip. It was already around 4 PM thus
we only had two hours to finish up. We stayed back till 6 PM and took some
sunset shots. We were amongst the last group of people to leave.
After
a quick dinner we left our hotel by 10 PM we had already arranged our auto, the
same auto who had shown us around the previous day. For 150 Rs. we were dropped
to Khajuraho station. We took the 11.45 PM Khajuraho – Varanasi Link train to
Varanasi.
Day 5
We
reached Varansi at around 11.30 AM we had some biscuits on train thus our basic
breakfast was complete. I had a contact in Varanasi (Keshari Guest House) at
Assi Ghat. We had stayed here on October 2013 during our Varanasi shoot. The
owner Mr. Ashwin Rai was very welcoming and I had spoken to him the previous
day for our proposed stop over. We reached his guest house and we were allotted
a room on third floor with an attached bath. We freshened up quickly and went
to have a good Veg thali for 90 Rs. After lunch we went to Assi Ghat and spent
some time there, we took our cameras along but the light was absolutely not
suitable for any photography. We came back to the guest house and took a short
nap before heading back to the station. We took the Vibhuti express from
Varanasi Jn to Howrah.
Day 6
As
usual with Indian Railways the train was supposed to reach Howrah at 7.30 AM
but it was running late. It reached Howrah at 9 AM and I took a dash to the
Taxi booth. I did a quick calculation that if I go to home then I will be late
for office and will miss an important appointment thus headed straight to
office. While on way I called up my wife to carry trouser and shirt for me,
luckily her school is very near to my office and can easily take them. Took the
new attire from her and went straight to the office (guest room) for a quick
shower and a change. By 10 AM I was back in office far away from the majestic
Khajuraho, eagerly waiting to go back to MP for another stint at Orchha, Jhansi
& Gwalior. Till then bye and thanks for reading patiently.
P.S. I purposely
left out erotic sculptures in my writing as I felt that people only highlighted
erotic concept just to build the interest in tourism. There are erotic
sculptures but there is more…much much more…
Reported by
Subhadip Mukherjee with additional text inputs from Amitabho Gupta
Subhadip Mukherjee with additional text inputs from Amitabho Gupta
Subhadip
Mukherjee
Amitabha Gupta
